Who would have thought, from a skatepark small in one of corner of Traffic Garden Bandung (Parks Ade Irma Suyani), in the early year 1990s, become place historic that the background for developmental fashion young child Bandung in one last decade this. Skateboard later became the common thread that characterize and exploration of fashion and lifestyle elaborated by the perpetrators and establish style Bandung youth today.
Meeting at the Traffic Park makes Didit or known by the name Dxxxt, Helvi and Richard Mutter (former drummer Pas Band), then agreed to manage a shared space in Jalan Sukasenang Bandung. This space became known as a forerunner to the emergence of local clothing business for young people in London. “Search name dit, si Helvi told you gitu .. time it was again by the way matter of Cihampelas,” Dxxxt started the his story when my question where did behalf of Reverse originated. “Why yes, the Cihampelas was not making products with their own brands, why they make the brand was the reply, armani lah .. why not make your own, for example reverse .. trus Helvi says name it was nice. Yes I finally used for the name of the store. “In 1994, they built a music studio and a shop that sells CDs, cassettes posters, T-shirts, magazines, posters and band accessories imported directly from overseas. Specific options, make the goods sold in Reverse, can not be found in other stores in London at the time.
Reverse when it became a gathering place for communities from different scenes. Punk,
hardcore, pop, surf, bmx, skateboarding, rock, grunge, all could meet in that place. PAS and Puppen are some bands that had been raised by the community Reverse. Richard himself had formed a record label independent 184.108.40.206 the first release, a compilation album “Masaindahbangetsekalipisan”, in 1997. The bands that participated in the release include Burger Kill, Puppen, Papi, Rotten To The Core, Full of Hate and Waiting Room as a band only one of Jakarta are included in this compilation.
When the economic crisis occurred in 1998, a business that served Reverse, had a hard time until finally closed. They are no longer able to buy goods from abroad because they value the dollar against the rupiah has skyrocketed and unaffordable. However the condition of difficult this is precisely gave birth new phase in industrial development clothing Bandung. Reverse vetaran Helvi, then build a clothing label named Airplane who started his business in 1997. Not only that, with Dxxxt and Marin, Helvi build a record label named Fast Foward in 1999.
Airplane which he founded with two colleagues who another: Fiki and Colay, officially stand on dated February 8th, 1998. “Initially the heck we already guns could no longer buy imported goods because it is expensive and monetary crisis. At that time we think, we make what? You see if buying, there are guns who suitable, pengen kaos who rich gini guns there .. who gitu guns there .. originally from there, yes I we make himself deh sure the background respectively. All influenced by our daily life that we enjoy aja .. usually from the skateboard, then we also play music, then it affects all graphic design clothing itself. So weve finally sorts. “Obviously Helvi when I met at the office Airplane in the titiran Bandung.
Reverse transformation as a clothing company, led by Dxxxt in February 2004. Powered by Marin, Wendi Suherman and Indra Gatot as his business partner. Reverse then incarnated became label which focusing himself on fashion for men. Urban culture which become everyday the team his creative, became inspiration in the design of product-product Reverse.
While penchant skateboard, bmx and surfing who ditekuni Dandhy and friends-his friend, precisely motivate they to make product-product which supports hobby which their loved. Not an easy thing to find fashion supporting surfing activities in London at the time. Then in 1996, of the home in Dago 347 Bandung, they began to manufacture goods that support the hobby for their own use. It turns out what they wear, attracted the attention of their friends. Just as Airplane, with their improvised venture capital start producing goods that they design for the needs of their hobby, for sale among their own friends with the label ‘347 Boardrider co. ‘First store was opened in 1999 and was named’ 347 Shophouse ‘in Jalan Trunojoyo Bandung. Similarly Ouval which appeared in 1998. Initially also was formed with spirit of for elaborating hobby of skateboard of its founders.
Hobbies and spirit of collectivism was very strong color appearance and clothing store clothing label at that time. Still in 1996, Dadan Ketu along with eight other friends formed a collective called Riotic. Common interest to the ideology of punk, uniting her and her friends. Riotic a collective label that produces its own release of the music played by their communities, publish zines, and opened a small shop to distribution outlets collective product they produce. Riotic is also known consistent in supporting performances-musical performances punk rock and underground who moment it often held in Gelora Saparua Bandung.
When I described what the young kids Bandung with clothingnya industry, my friend, an author of the book “Black Holes Culture” _ a book looking at the development of mass culture in Indonesia to reform phase 1998_Hikmat Budiman, he commented “London Children’s champion absorbing design ‘architecture’ globally, compared with young people in other cities. what is happening at the global level, can be translated and tricked by them and Commodified new lifestyle and a trend. They redefine the coolness that suits their context. besides it was also there is markets who absorb new commodity it. “
If we look more closely, what happens in Bandung on 90s, can not be separated from the global trend at that time. Music and lifestyle, as two inseparable, giving enormous influence in the development of youth fashion Bandung. Since generation Aktuil in years 70’an, Bandung known to be very adaptive on the development of music the world. When the trace stream any music that developed in the decade of 90s, we can see how the music is affecting exploration Bandung youth in the field of fashion. Grunge, which is influenced by punk, emerged in the early 90s. Doc Martens, Converse high-top sneakers and a flannel shirt that became a fashion trend until the mid ’90s. On the fact flannel used musicians homage to grunge it because it’s cheap and warm. When grunge was later replaced by alternative music in the mid 90s and Nu-Metal that was driven by Korn until towards the end of 1990, this fashion is still carried. Hip hop is more popular with skateboarders and influence the development of R & B music is another color in that decade. Hardcore scene or scenecore also called emo and style that brought the flow of pop punk music that influenced brings fashion trend that crossed between them and is influenced by a third wave of pop punk was spearheaded by Green Day, Good Charlote, Simple Plan.
Extreme sports (such as skateboarding and surfing), achieved popularity in the year 1995. ESPN as channel extreme sport and only can be watchable through antenna parabolic, become one of referral the skateboarder Bandung at that moment. Other references such as magazines Thrasher, who portray skateboarding as a sport that is based on the spirit of rebellion and familiar with the ideology of punk, while Transworld Skateboarding feels more modern, diverse and maintaining the image of the star skateboarding. Including also entry of MTV into Indonesia which introduces lifestyle new with the jargon-jargonnya: ‘MTV diff’, ‘MTV Gue Banget’. Differences become commodities that are celebrated together.
When in early 90s, fashion skateboarding the world influenced by developments street skateboarding which very thick feel of punk rocknya. Baggy with oversize denim and t-shirt extra large became trend at that moment. While the mid-to late 1990s, the fashion trend in the world of skateboarding changed more ‘lean’. Size jeans and T-shirts, became more fits in the body. Even some skateboarders use jeans and t-shirts extra tight. These changes make the fashion style in the world of skateboarding is divided into two categories: “punk” (tight and ngepas body) and “baggy” although in practice the division is a bit more complicated. Pants shagging jeans or baggy sweaters from cotton or polyester to pull over and pouch kangaroo in front of him or called hoodies, baseball caps, and shoes vans. Style skate punk is then much explored in the design of clothing of young children Bandung. Magazines catalogs such as Suave, published in London clearly shows the influence it. At the end of the 90s the so-called “punk style clothing” a new tagline in the development of industrial clothing globally. Punk style then into something mainstream, worldwide and become established.
“We emang a lot of influenced by music that we like, from label-label skateboard which we wear was once, because we the magnitude of, growing upnya in situ. Because this music not it very linked with the fashion, “Helvi who also creative director Airplane, admits thing it.
Opinions Helvi reinforced Arian thirteen, former vocalist Puppen and is now become vocalist band Seringai “There is a phenomenon who interesting ceuk urang mah, first Bandung famous for with band-band who cool-cool but time elapsed and apparently band nope too generate / support his, and is now the perpetrators of the band moved into clothing. Happens to continues to bright band Bandung who’ve got name of ‘gede’ now already guns significant. But the clothing industry so that more support can clearly yes, because the band was still playing while the reality beggar must have the capital to live. “
Developments of information technology that are so rapidly within the decade 90s, become important factor in the process of which called Hikmat Budiman as the absorption of architectural design global. When the 1995 business Internet Service Provider (ISP) began to develop in Jakarta, according to Reuters notes, Bandung became one of the three largest cities users of Internet services. If it was listed on there are about 14 thousand internet users in Indonesia, Bandung became a city of internet users third largest (1,000 users), after Jakarta (10,000 users) and Surabaya (3,000 users). How then developments technology this information absorbed within time which almost simultaneously in Bandung. Shopping online which done Reverse for obtain products-products imported which they sell back in Bandung. Also which done Anonymous who emerged year-1999, follow in the footsteps its predecessor with selling t-shirt import band merchandise she’d ordered via the internet.
During its development, design exploration clothing young children Bandung, many are also influenced by the style of Japanese street fashion that feels more eclectic and experimental. Magazine Trolley (alm 2001-2003), had time to publishes special supplements regarding the style street fashion the Japanese this within one of the its editions.
Shift qibla global creative from America to the UK / Europe within three years last this, also feels its influence. Its amendment very clearly feels within scene the music. Street culture England and Europe then became source of new referral in elaborating design of product-product clothing later. In 2006, the Fast Foward record, has twice brought bands from Europe to perform in Bandung_King of Convinience (Norway) and Edson (Sweden).
When period Order power the New ends, social life political Indonesia experienced many changes in era the reform. Residents Bandung show the pattern of relation which is new with space-public space which exist in the town Bandung. Diverse activity of and celebrations performed in the road. Such as Dago street, a public catwalk invite anyone who came to show their style of ornamentation. Individuals then got the space to express themselves. At that time, many performances of music which was then sponsored by a clothing company that started to have the economic ability.
In addition to its interest in the music that they sponsor, such events as it later became one of the joint strategy to promote brand products clothing they make. Monik, Celtic and Popcycle management, known periodically organizing concerts La Viola in collaboration with the central of Culture french (CCF) bandung. Marin, in addition to being one of the owner Monik, Celtic, Fast Foward, Reverse clothing Company, also has a TRL bar in Jalan Braga. from the small bar that also, exploration of electronic music that much coloring global musical development in recent years, many do. One option is the school Drum n Bass led by DJ xonad, type of electronic dance music is growing in the UK in the decade of 90s and gain prominence in the early 2000s and developed in several European countries in the last two years.
“Because of London a city, I want doing anything easy … anyways people are friendly, very liquid, babaturanlah, all being equal,” said Dede anonymous, as I quoted from the writings of Gustaff H. Iskandar, ‘Fuck You! We’re from Bandung. Conditions inil, according Gustaff, special blessings for the development of music and street fashion in London. And encourage the growth of clothing store (distributions) in Bandung.
A number of issues
In days of booms clothing store last 2003, Kompas once wrote: “As for for open the a distro, just it takes capital” reckless “. quite provide a small room, for example take one of corner of the house like garage. Ago goods-can these goods be be used the system sell Babysitting on, with receive titipan goods from various clothing company. If the goods entrusted it sold, then set aside profits for the distro (clothing store). “
But the process is not as simple as that. Reckless capital alone is not enough. However businesses backed by hobby and pleasure also contains a variety of risks. Conflict of interest that pits between business and idealism, burst as a consequence that must be faced and tricked.
“I’m not a business man was, eventually I had to learn the business, pity his cave so ..” prank Dandhy in a Gathering Community Creative in London, last April. “Cave feel many barriers in creativity because many kepentok,” although words Dandy was pitched fool around, but in practice, the seriousness in managing the business has become a process of adaptation that heavy. Some Clothing that is strong enough like Airplane and 347/eat, intentionally hire management consultants and business to provide input in developing their businesses. Fiki business manager at once one of one founders of Airplane confessed, suggestions-suggestions business from professional consultant not entirely could in apply. “Still wrote, we must nemuin most appropriate way and good for us to live. Guns could be entirely based on management theory. “It is also felt Dandhy. Business consultant who oversees the performance of himself and his friends, even make them work in an atmosphere that was uncomfortable. Finally Dandhy choose restore the working atmosphere who comfortable, although it was means without business consultant.
Fiki, explains, for the rearing business which was originally is built based on hobby, it took high discipline inside manage it. “Gua between having a Airplane this bener-bener discipline. We muterin money is there and the discipline to between having it. And guns never been exist an injection of funds again since the funds the beginning. Airplane stand up already since 1997, but it was really between having a business since opening shop in 2001. Since September 2001, time it we start with money less than 10 million for lease a place and we udah’ve got turnover who tolerable, but if there is lebihnya we simpen and dipake for production again, nambahin of capital. Because we have little knowledge of the administration also, so be orderly administration and it was fixed and very good. “
However not all clothing company has the ability to pay business consultants or perform division of labor who clear. For those of clothing company that emerged later, idealism and limitations of capital become challenge which should disiasati harder anymore. Because in business, they have to deal with the clothing of his friends who appeared and established first.
Of terms of developing an design, do not a lot also who do research and development design seriously. A result of boom clothing in of 2003, follower that emerged later, many which origin trace design-design that already exist. Because to build a character strong design takes time and a long process. Responding to concerns the design was traced, either Helvi and Dandhy, it did not feel worried. For Helvi, such conditions, even make it more focused again find the character design Airplane. Similarly Dandhy, if his image is strong, no need to worry with the imitators. The seriousness of the matter and visual design is then differentiate and characterize the clothing one another.
United’s we stand
Time showed nearly noon. The weather was so sunny. Living room Jalan Kyai Gede Primary 8 Bandung, feels guyup, replacing loneliness commonly felt. A group of young people lounging on wooden benches, in the open garden. Faces-old faces, first generation clothing Bandung post-, 1995, mingled with faces-new face generation his followers. Not the thing who easy, collects them in one time. Boisterous sound of jokes and laughter, mixed with singing of the birds that have long inhabited the trees around. “Now we want to be like what? Its direction is the association that is run by the mafia? Or what? Do we make the association to make the tackle counter cartels? Or association is only to accommodate the interests and ideology of the same, and destroy opponents of differing views? Or social or humanitarian purpose. “Dandhy owner clothing 347/eat, throw the question to the forum. Long debate thirty people who is present wherever else begins. Laughter, turned serious. Each was thinking of answers and each argued for hours later. I was present there, noting the time. That day, Monday, June 12, 2006. The day where associations the entrepreneurs clothing who named after ‘Forum Communication Entrepreneur Clothing Bandung’, in declare.
For me, this is indeed already’s time, when finally the young entrepreneurs clothing Bandung this willing are banning together make Forum Komukasi. This case instead of without cause. Those that have been unaddressed as economic potential, suddenly not just glance, but try to embrace the government through programs help Small and Medium Enterprises, Disperindag. Citing what reported People’s Daily Thoughts on June 8, 2006, Drs. H. Agus Gustiar, M.Si., as the Head of Dinas of Industry and Trade (Disperindag), “Anyhow the strength we exist on IKM. To be more powerful, all SMEs have banded together to create a new breakthrough that could lift Bandung in particular. “… Agus sure, industry distro Bandung has its own characteristics that inspired the creativity of young people in Bandung.” Do not let it disappear like some brands who are now starting fade, even unknown people. Yet this is represents a potential Bandung which must’ll enjoy. “
In the normal course and the Creative Community Gathering Online conference held during the month of April-May 2006, organized by the Urban Design Study Center and Common Room Networks Foundation, identify external issues faced during this. The problems that arise, when for the government do not support their activities. The absence of government regulation is evident in the development of industry-based creativity as practiced Clothing company during this time, also industrial development strategy based on creativity as one of the economic development of sustainable cities. Not to again management of taxes which incoherently reciprocal baliknya. The issue of absence of infrastructure and lack clarity settings land use in Bandung for commercial areas, causing economic value land increasingly expensive and unattainable in developing businesses which during this they run. In the end, support which digembar-heralded the government for support the Small Industries Medium and work up passion will be domestic products, just become jargon mere.
Knowingly or not, the clothing industry that emerged and developed in Bandung, it triggers the development of small industries novel that is also based on creativity. Organically, supporting infrastructure, emerging one by one. “It was another boom-boom in clothing, then I thought, why also went along to make clothing, better I make other businesses that can support their efforts. There is a consciousness in me and three friends and I another, I ngeliatnya these people already had professional ones, if they do business it should be promoted, they have a good product, why if guns promote, “said Uchunk, one of the founders Suave, Free Catalogue Magazine, when I’ve encountered disebuah a place hanging out in Bandung. Suave initially printed as many as 3000 of ex with a capital a personal computer. Its circulation has now reached 8000 ex with 90 full color pages. In addition designed to be according Uchunk, looks mainstream, far from being indie and underground, Uchunk also provide gallery page for anyone who wants to show off the work of graphic on one page Suave.
According uchunk, many clothing company who then use the services of graphic designers, photographers and advertising agencies to work on promotional materials concerned products. For him this condition very encouraging, because fields other creative industries later popping up. Helvi added, “When we make it, guns kepikiran when in front turned out to be associated with all sorts. Photographer, advertising, it not it exclamation becomes. So rich has its own world, its infrastructure so to forms and this is the area of young people. “
Reasonable course, if then bid who came arrived-arrived this was, disikapi with forming Forum Communication which aims for strengthen and mutually supportive one another. Many problems both internal and external that have had to be handled and solved solely by them. Therefore, the government’s offer, as something to good to be true. They instead of resistant against good intentions government, however which they expect is clarity in the process of negotiation whereby the bargaining position both parties could walk with balanced. In this case they shows the, what which so-called Gustaff H. Iskandar in the same post, as the political independence and economic.
Perspective of self-reliance, then a principle that is always interpreted again by them. When self-reliance means embark big dreams with step-small steps. With a joint of capital potluck. Also when the this venture berkemban and get attention, self-reliance means building bargaining position them when fight with lots of interests-other interests. Government one.
And while, many people then complain, that product clothing became uniform, time will tell which one is then consistent through the process of continuous exploration for finding maturity products or even new innovations and which are then lost as brands Bandung is fading and unidentified person as feared Agus Gustiar.
At least until today, after a decade long they proceed continuously, fears are unfounded. “The most cool according to the cave is, where is now young kids guns prestige and the embarrassment again use local products. And we are happy, we appreciated the work of the people who ride public transportation began to fancy cars, wearing a local jersey. “Helvi says it with eyes sparkling eyes relief. Relief that I feel not only his, but also his community, his playmates, when they work hard, prove something, not just a mere jargon